Today we descended the mountain in the first half of our day, then up-and-down-and-up-and-down along a river until we reached Samos. We logged another 15 miles, but with the elevation changes, it was a tough day. Up 380m, down 1176m. Up is definitely easier on the knees.
Weather started at 60F, and just got warmer and warmer as we descended. The sections next to the river with shade and breeze were pleasant. Other sections - stagnant and on concrete - were harder. Not sure why, but the last 5km seemed to double and double as we walked.
On the positive side, it was a very good birding day. 35 species, with only one new one, which we found as we came into Samos - but we were able to get close to a number of birds and get some good photos - and that is a big win.
With the elevation drop, from mountain-top, to fields, to river-walk, we saw a lot of different birds, insects, and flora. It was hot, though, so generally the insects didn't sit still for photos. I tried to catch a number of these in flight, and succeeded a few times, and failed >>10x more times - but for a shot at an ok photo, I'll take those odds.
Both of us were a very warm and worn at the end of today's adventure. Got checked-in, a good meal, and cleaned-up. That helped.
After some rest, we attended the 7:30 mass, which we thought started at 7:00PM, but started at 7:20. The church was quite a sight. The mass was pleasant. Even though my Spanish was not up to the task of understanding the word-for-word, knowing the plot and some Spanish was sufficient.
Tomorrow has a good chance of wet. And is 27km - a longer day with a lot of up/down/up/down (sum of elevation changes: 748m up, 633m down). It could be a long slog. But it shouldn't be as hot. We'll see. We are probably going to try for an earlier start.
It will also get us past Sarria - This is the 'minimum' location for a Camino. To get the 'official stamp', one must go at least 100km. Sarria is at 120, and is where a large fraction of the short-run folks tend to start. It is likely that the trails (and hostels/hotels/albergues) are going to become seriously crowded between Sarria and the end. Jana has things arranged for the next two days, but there is more administrative work to be done to get us all the way to Santiago. Sarria itself is likely to be a circus.
I'm sure all these folks will also be extra chipper, and come with that 'New Pilgrim' smell. I wish them well.
On to photos:
We knew it was going to be warm, so left at first light - this picture is out the front door at 6:29AM:
The path started along a mostly-empty roadway on one side, and forest on the other. Quite pleasant. (The descent did not really kick in for the first couple of miles).
And a number of birds decided that we were less threatening, and gave us some better opportunities. Getting some better skill at aiming the camera and catching the intended object in a zoomed-in viewfinder is also helping. here a Dunnock, trying to hide:
And I had no problem zooming in on this Donkey. When he saw us, and that we were paying attention to him, he came to give us a visit (Video below):
A female European Robin that didn't seem to mind sharing the trail. To a point.
And the descent begins:
Another up-close shot. A Eurasian Wren with breakfast:
Another look into the valley below:
And again, in the grasslands, so many wildflowers:
Still headed the right way - and 144.447km to go (if you can read the text below the yellow arrow):
And a Yellowhammer on the trail. Haven't been able to get close to one before. And immediatley after, another on a wire behind some brush:
What's that? Another Yellowhammer? And closer? And singing?
And a close-up with a Common Whitethroat on a stem - and then wiping his beak across it:
Ran across this guy on the trail. The text reads: 2.3km from this point is the Cova de Eiros, a natural cavern, where unique archaeological and paleontological finds are being made. This site is the only on on the Iberian Peninsula where evidence has been found simultaneously of the last Neanderthals that inhabited the northwest of the peninsula and the first Homo Sapiens that arrived in the area.
We did not search for the cave 2.3km away.
First butterfly of the day - A Speckled Wood butterfly:
And another long-headed poppy.
Our trail is now along farmland and forest with a lot of grassy plains:
A Red Admiral butterfly, with a big chunk out of its right wing:
As we walked through the next town, we encountered a traffic-jam, and needed to yield the right-of-way. A motorcycle (expected) followed by cows and a herding dog (less expected) filling the one-lane road. We chose not to challenge the cows, and waited patiently for them to pass:
More farmland, and a look up toward some of the hills we came down:
Another giant slug. Fortunately, I was able to get this one in my viewfinder before it skittered off.
One of the towns we passed is Ramil, famed for its Chestnut Tree. It is estimated at 800-850 yrs old (though the sign understatedly says that the tree is 'more than 100 yrs old'). Jana posed next to the tree. I was also able to get this one in the viewfinder before either of them skittered off. A good day.
At the next town, we had a choice. The direct route, or a longer route that included a famous Monastery (at Samos). We chose the latter. The first segment for this leg was along a freeway on one side, and a river on the other. Hot. Hot. Hot.
But Jana found some wild strawberries, and we shared. That was a happy find.
Does this mean we are close to Samos? Not really. This is the equivalent of saying that we had entered Samos county.
None of the butterflies were really sitting still in the heat, but I caught a couple in flight. This one with black edges and a yellow interior looks like an Alfalfa Butterfly - but those are not normally found in Spain... so I am not entirely sure what this one is.
And this is a closeup of a European Crested Tit - the only small songbird in northern Europe with a distinct crest. I've heard them a number of times, but they are always high up in the trees, and embedded. Prior to this, I caught one glimpse. This was my first good look, and the photo caught it mid-trill.:
The next section was fortunately mostly off the road, and along a river, with a lot of up and down (not the river - but the path on the riverbank).
A Marsh Fritillary Butterfly - a good look at the underside:
Both the Lady's Glove and a miniature version in the same shot:
Another Speckled Wood butterfly. A lot of butterflies today seem to be missing some chunks - it must be getting near the end of their life-cycle:
Passing through one old village, noted this slate roof with a dragon's tooth interlocking design.
Continuing up the road...
And between walls marking the boundaries of farms:
And we reach the city. Here is a side-view of the Monastery as we arrived:
And the church. A lot of detail:
Now time for rest. Tomorrow will be a challenging day.
Loving the dragon’s tooth slate roof
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