32 days.
753km (573km by foot, 180km by bike).
Elevation changes: 12,381m ascent (40,620 feet); 13,075m descent (42,900 ft).
The Proclaimers proclaimed that they would walk 500 miles, but we did it, (even if 110 miles of it was actually on a bike).
After a couple of days to think, I can present some thoughts about our adventure:
When we started, we did not have a good idea of what we were getting into. I think we had an understanding of the general concept - walking a lot. And we (Jana) had read a lot. But some of the finer points we did not realize until we became immersed.
I think the big one is that you really have two choices: Carry everything and you have flexibility on where to stay and something will always work out; if you are sending a bag ahead, you really need reservations and the systems are not straightforward or flexible - and you need to hit that exact destination (no changing).
Another big one is that the elevation changes were big. And every day.
When there are no real 'recovery days,' and every day is 'leg day,' 32 days is a lot of days.
There were a few points where I thought our Camino was going to come to a premature end. The first time was Day 1 at Roncesvalles after we arrived, when it was late, nothing made sense, we couldn't find a place to stay, we couldn't figure out how to deal with luggage... it was a tough first night. Then later, the week between Legroño and Burgos, when Jana was having both physical pain (leg) and true mental anguish (unable to book places to stay) - I think we were 50/50 on our Camino ending; at Agés I had mentally prepared myself to arrive in Burgos and be done.
But I suppose any good Shakespearean-like drama has to build a doubt/tension in order to achieve a satisfactory ending (and here, I am talking about Bill's comedies).
Jana's planning for this, and her work of the logistics... She was amazing. On this aspect, I was completely useless (my phone has not dataplan, and is a brick if not at a WiFi hotspot - oh, and if I had an awesome dataplan, I would still be useless). Without her coordinating the hostels and the luggage transport, we never would have made it.
I think we now have things pretty well figured out, are now ready to plan an efficient Camino.
Like parenthood, when you finally think you might have the basics figured out, it is pretty much over.
We certainly made a lot of mistakes, but I wouldn't change any of it. Except maybe the seat on that bike...
A few other observations on Camino, that go beyond Camino:
1) People on Camino are good and friendly people, and are invariably willing to help.
2) A smile, a "Buen Camino", and a willingness to listen, all go a long way towards starting a conversation and a relationship, even if shared language is limited.
2b) If there is an empty seat at a table of pilgrims at a bar/restaurant/albergue - ask permission to join. Do not sit at an empty table.
3) Take care of your feet. Without your feet, you are not going anywhere. Your mind and body might feel they can do another 10k, but your feet might need that extra time to prepare for tomorrow.
4) Use sunscreen and wear a hat (protect yourself)
4b) Use deodorant. (protect others)
5) An early start and an early finish will minimize your exposure to heat.
6) When in doubt, always look for a yellow arrow.
7) When you are presented with a problem on the Camino, the Camino almost always provides a solution. It might not be one you relish (eg: bicycles), but the Camino really does provide.
8) Do not focus on the trail. The trail that you are walking on is usually not all that interesting. The interesting stuff is happening to the left and right of your path. Look around. Hear the birds. Smell the Spanish Broom. See the flowers and insects. The wildflower growing in the crack of a concrete wall. Take lots of pictures. Talk with others. Just don't trip.
9) Some of the best conversations I had on Camino were walking side by side with Jana, in silence.
10) Many people may be on the same trail, but everyone is walking their own Camino.
11) It is your Camino. No one else can define what the Camino means for you. You choose what you take from it. It is yours.
... ... I am hoping #11 doesn't obsolete #1-#10.
And sometimes you can influence others without realizing... On a handful of occasions in the last 10 days of Camino, we would encounter a familiar face, and say "I'm not sure if we've actually met yet, but I know that I've seen you on the trail," and the answer would be "I don't think so". We would talk for a bit, and then the person would say "Oh - you're that Bird-Guy! I've heard about you! You listen to all the birds! Can I show you my pictures?" Or, with folks I knew, even if we hadn't seen each other in a couple weeks "The other morning we got an early start, and we were listening to the birds and watching the sunrise, and we talked about how much you would have loved it."
I really had no idea that this 'odd' behavior would build me a trail 'reputation' - or that it might influence (in a small way) how a few others experienced their own Caminos. In my mind, listening to the birds (with and without Merlin) was my meditation 'technique' to help me focus on the world/nature about me, to pay attention to the flowers and butterflies and bees, and to remember to take a lot of pictures - which helped keep my feet from aching and did a lot to lock up some of the demons in my head (at least for a while).
It is done.
We are now at Intermission. Time for snacks. (I will post some catch-up material on the Intermission shortly).
In brief (and I realize I am now backlogged by 2 days):
We spent an extra day in Santiago, and welcomed a number of friends who arrived that day. We took a bus to Finisterre on the coast (some people spend three extra days walking there - we did not feel the need). Took a Mass at the Cathedral.
Hopped a bus to Porto (Portugal) for two nights (tonight is night 1), and will be slowly meandering from here to Rotterdam to catch the Float.
Looks like the stop after Porto will be a Day in the City of Light.
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