Overall today was a GREAT day. But days cannot be perfect. Sometimes, the unexpected or bizarre just needs to be taken as entertainment. It was a bit like a movie (The Great, The Mundane, and the Insane). I will explain. In parts.
Why today was GREAT:
We were not on bikes. We were walking. Together.
It was a shorter day - kind of a test day. About 22km. Ground was relatively flat with some short climbs and descents. Sky was overcast, and kept temperatures cool. We went at a slower pace. Got to take a lot of pictures.
Jana's time off her ankle, and her frequent stretch-breaks, seem to have prevented any relapse for today. We left our Space-Age hotel at about 7AM, and got to our destination a bit before 2PM (and our luggage amazingly shoed up again!).
Why today was MUNDANE:
The entire walk, except a couple of very short sections, was urban. It started in the León historic-district (which had a number of very cool buildings and statues), but then moved into the downtown business district, and then along a highway with highway towns. Kind of like walking Downtown Portland and the Tillicum bridge, and then along a bike-path/walkway alongside I-84 up to Troutdale.
But there were breaks in the monotony. A few birds and bugs and flowers did pop out. Some of the downtown León sites were fantastic - but we are not on León schedule (nothing much happens until 9AM, and then Everything shuts down at 3-4PM [except Burger King] until 8-9PM when the city really comes alive, but walkers are turning in).
Why today was INSANE:
This hotel is not futuristic. It is a portal into 1975. The building. The layout. The pictures on the walls. The non-functional elevator. The key-card for the room that is hole-punched like and IBM card. The king-bed with a single pillow that runs the length of the headboard. I have pictures. (Sincerely, we are very happy to be here - and we are enjoying the quirks.)
After checking-in, we went next door for lunch. It was like a cross-over sitcom where Mel's Diner (from Alice) is being run by the cast of All In The Family. The menu was out of the 1970s. Jana got a sandwich, and a plate of grilled vegetables (which turned out to be bacon and boiled green beans, with a healthy amount of 'broth'); I got a combo #1 - chicken breast with potatoes and salad; a 3rd person at our table ordered scrambled eggs.
After ordering from a nice guy (who turned out to be Spanish Meathead), Spanish Archie comes from a back room and starts shouting at Meathead for a couple of minutes straight, and Meathead disappears, with the counter now being manned by Spanish Archie.
Jana's food arrives with a basket of bread. 10 minutes later, we are debating which will come first, the chicken or the eggs. Or if they need to squeeze the eggs out of the chicken before either of the other two meals can be prepared.
A number of construction workers and painters are walking into the diner, and then through a dark passageway into the back, and we are trying to figure out what they can all be doing - we are not hearing construction. Others are sitting around the counter, and sitting at adjacent tables, and drinking beer and eating sandwiches.
Finally, the 3rd person at our table (who still has 11km to walk) approaches Spanish Archie and asks about the status of her eggs. He scolds her loudly: "ES IMPOSIBLE! No huevos! No en menu! Why we make that for you?" She gets frustrated, pays for her pineapple juice and leaves.
Spanish Archie disappears into a back room. A number of different waiters/waitresses are appearing from the back room to make coffee drinks and give beers and wine to various folks in the diner, or disappear with them back into the secret room, but none stop long enough for me to ask a question.
A few minutes later, Spanish Archie is back. I ask about my Combo #1. He slaps his head and starts yelling at the ceiling. Then yells behind some door. Then disappears. I sit back down, and guess that this means 'no es imposible'.
A few minutes after that: chicken breast with potatoes and salad arrives (3 pan-fried chicken cutlets, french-fries and some iceberg lettuce with cherry tomatoes). And a giant slice of bread. More and more construction workers are coming in, and walking through some passageway into a back room.
We finish eating. The diner suddenly has no staff at all. No Archie, No Meathead. No Gloria. Just nobody. Jana walks down the long corridor to the back (where all the construction people were going), and it is like there is a 2nd restaurant there (sit-down, rather than a diner where you order at the bar, but the same menu). I go back there and try to find someone I can pay. The waitstaff all seems surprised that there is no one out front. And that there will be someone there shortly, but they can't take my money except at the front where I ordered.
I go back out front. After about 10 minutes, a Second Spanish Meathead shows up. I ask him if I can pay. Of course, no one has a record of what we ordered, so I tell him (in Spanish): #5 from 1st column, #13 from 3rd column, #1 from Combos, one beer, one white wine. He writes something down. He goes to the computer and punches some things in. He comes back to me and asks if I can repeat. He writes something down. He goes to the computer. He comes back to me again and has me repeat again. He goes back to the computer. He stops one of the waitresses and asks for help with the computer. She tells him (in Spanish) that he needs to be able to figure this out on his own.
Then Spanish Archie shows up and yells at 2nd Spanish Meathead for a full minute, and tells him to get lost (he does). I tell him I want to pay (in Spanish). He acts aggrieved by my adding yet one more straw to his burden. Then he asks me what we ordered, because no one remembers. I tell him (in Spanish): #5 from 1st column, #13 from 3rd column, #1 from Combos, one beer, one white wine. He looks at the menu for a few seconds, and says (quite gruffly) "35 Euro". I respond: "Que? No. Es demasiado. (too much)", He spins the menu around to look at it again. And stares for a few seconds, tapping his fingers on the items we ordered, and says (again quite gruffly) "28 Euro". One of the local guys at an adjascent table looks at Jana, rolls his eyes and spins his finger slowly next to his head (the loco motion).
We paid and left back to our 1975 Hotel (about 40 minutes after we first tried to pay).
I wonder if we get Free HBO.
I don't need it though. There is free entertainment everywhere. And we were in no hurry.
27 species seen today. One new.
Sorry for the screed. Here are pictures.
Our luggage is unique. When it is being rolled, I can differentiate from other luggage, and know it is mine. (Zoom on the wheels; they have seen better days):
Walking the streets of the historic district of León in the early morning, passed this entryway into a building with some nice Camino-themed art (the shell):
A few pictures from a Town Square:
And the adjacent Museo Casa Botines Gaudí (interesting artwork directly above the door):
A quite morning in León. But the pavement is very cool.
One of many statues we passed on our walk through the Historic District, this one of Alfonso IX:
And then we pass out of the old fortress wall, and into the business districts:
Directly across from the pilgrim statue is this building that started as a hospital/hotel for pilgrims by a wealthy philanthropist couple, went into disrepair, and was rebuilt by other philanthropists. A few cycles. Now, it is a hotel. The front (the facade of San Marcos) was constructed in 1531 is now considered to be one of the most important existing works of the Spanish Rennaissance. It was built to honor the Order of Santiago and Charles V, and includes numerous battle-scenes from the Bible, Greek mythology, and Spanish history.
The third photo is from directly above the doorway. In the fourth, look at the faces above the faces. Again, this is a hotel. We walked into the lobby and got our "Camino Passports" stamped. You can sleep here.
And now for the next miles, we are in a more industrial district:
A lot of TV antennas:
We passed a number of these today. We believe these are subterranean wine cellars:
Urban wildflowers (I think common mallow):
Alongside the road was this rest-spot for pilgrims. Tables. Free water. Restrooms. Tools for repair-work. Some entertaining signs. A suggestion box.
We were walking by this building that looked like it was hand-chiseled stone (cement ceiling above us, so we couldn't see anything above). Rounded the corner, and it was a magnificent church. We almost missed it entirely (the path crosses the road, away from the church, before getting to the front church entrance):
A couple of White Storks hunting (across from the highway):
More tower bells. More White storks.
A White Wagtail:
Daily Poppy Picture:
Remember how I said we were glad not to be on bikes? There are three Camino-pilgrim bikes here (two hidden by the camper). Trying to negotiate around a parked car in the bike-lane with 70kph traffic maybe giving enough room. Fortunately, we did not (would not) ride in these conditions.
A Eurasian Magpie fluttering wings while calling:
A Eurasian Wren trilling from a treetop:
A couple of images of Booted Eagle; very cool black/white contrast on the underside:
A new one today - A Western Marsh Harrier:
And a Northern Wheater (focus a bit fuzzy):
And for non-bird nature: A Violet Carpenter Bee alighting on Asphodel:
And here is our time-portal 1975 hotel, with a balcony view:
And above the headboard? Cloth art held up by thumbtacks:
And an IBM punchcard roomkey:
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