Day 22 - Foncebadón to Molinaseca (Posting #2)

     Now that I have dispensed with my personal reflections, I can get on with the progress of the physical portion of the Camino walk.

    Today was a shorter day - only 20-ish km (about 12 miles), by plan.  Part of that was to spend some extra time at the Cruz de Ferro.  Part of it was 1061m descent over 12 miles [and up 207m]), for a net descent of about 2800 feet.  That is a LOT of downhill, and on rocky terrain.  Poles are needed.

    And, with 2800 feet of net descent, there would be a lot of changes in climate zones.  So I wanted to take the time to observe the changes in plants and birds and bugs.  I guess I failed to realize that the first good chunk of the walk today would have NO bugs (too cold in the early morning).

    The walk was challenging.  My toes were definitely hitting the ends of the shoes a lot.  My knees are sore, and took some jarring, but a lot better than I expected (all of this walking might be providing some benefits), but we will discover the real status in the morning.

    We left Foncebadón a bit after 7:30 in the morning, but (partially) due to the challenging downhill terrain, and (mostly) due my frequent dawdling and picture-taking, and trying to get a visual on that Goldcrest/Long-Tailed Tit/Red-Billed Chough, we did not set any land-speed records.  We moseyed into Molinaseca at 3PM as the bell-tower rang.  But that was kind of the plan for today - no rushing.

    We both felt pretty good about this leg, with Jana declaring it to be her favorite day of Camino to date.

    With all of the elevation changes, and changes in eco-zones, birding was good.  39 species.  2 new to us.  And a good view of a flying Eurasian Hoopoe, though we could not capture a picture.

    Onto the pictures!

    Just before breakfast (a real breakfast: Coffee, juice, toast and jam!) - sunrise approaching:

    Walk starting.  7:48 AM:

    A White Wagtail wading in a pond:

    And across the trail, in another pond.  So many chirping frogs.  I did not think they would be this noisy at 40F.  Of course, you can't SEE them.  So maybe they aren't really frogs....
VIDEO:

    Very few trees.  Mostly bushes and scrub:

    A look back down from where we had climbed the day before, shortly after sunrise (and then a second picture without the glare of the sun):

    So many wildflowers, succulents, and scrub:

    Our last look at the East side of the Mountain, with Jana coming up the path:

    A Dunnock, in the flat light of the morning:

    More scrub - but in the distance as we approach the top ridgeline, a conifer forest:

    A European Goldfinch at the edge of the pines:

    A Dunnock not affected by flat light:

    After spending our time at the Cruz de Ferre, we assumed we would begin our descent, but we still had some oscillations and elevation gain first.

    A look down a steep grade to our right (off of the ridge-line)
into the forest below:

    And a peak-a-boo look to the adjacent valley and mountain.  Unlike our time at the Meseta, these windmills were spinning rapidly:

    Another mountain view:

    A Greater Whitethroat singing up a storm:

    A Spanish Cowbird:

    European Stonechats continue to pose nicely:

    A SubAlpine Warbler:

    Still going in the right direction.  Still have some distance to go:

    As we passed this point, Jana said - you know, that tower is the highest point in the area.  Do you want to climb?  Of course I did!  Added about 0.7 miles and 30 minutes to our walk.

    And a look down at Jana (who stayed at the bottom of the rise) - and a second picture with a lot of zoom:

    More succulents and wildflowers:

    And now the descent begins:

    Our first look to the valley in the West, where we will spend the night:

    I continue to be amazed by the succulents and wildflowers:

    And flowers with overlapping-petal design:

    At this point, the sun started to break through, and the colors became much more vibrant:

    A mutant flower?:

    Another view of our destination for the evening.  Way out there:

    A new bird for us today - a Dartford Warbler:

    Another view of the descent.

    As the sun came out, and as we descended, the insects started to come awake.  Here we have an Early Bumblebee in flight:

    And a regular Bumblebee:

    As the descent continues, the succulents give way to shrubs and bushes.  And our lunch location pops into view:

    Our first butterfly of the day.  A Melitaea Phoebe:

    And a Marsh Fritillary on a thistle:

    A better look at a Greater Whitethroat:

    And our first poppy in two days!

    After lunch, continued to descend.  More water and trees.  Here, a Melodious Warbler:

    Leaving town, an interesting re-bar sculpture:

    The downhill path continues, now with grasses and Spanish broom:

    Two views of a Meadow Brown butterfly, and a Queen of Spain Fritillary and a High Brown Fritillary:

    A good view of an Ortolan Bunting:

    Walking through a small town, Riego de Ambros, we saw this hand knit window decoration

    A  Small Copper butterfly:

    The path downward continues to be steep, and in sections, rocky, and in sections, rock.

    A Speckled Wood butterfly:

    Crossing a stream - the flora and fauna have again completely changed:

    A Cabbage White butterfly springing from a leaf:

    A couple more views as we approach valley floor:

    Our first glance of the city below:

    Some last wildflower pics:

    Walking across the bridge into town, the clock tower struck 3:00:

    And the bridge from near where we ate dinner:

    As I said.  I took too many photos, and this is only a small fraction.

    Overall, a very good day.  

    More updates tomorrow.