Day 20 - Vialladangos to San Justo

     The day started a bit monotonous - 8 miles along the freeway.  Fortunately, there were a hundred feet into farmland, and there were frequently stands of trees, so some birding opportunities.  But it was mentally tough.

    Then - at 8miles, the path veered away from the freeway, and into farmland, a few interesting historic towns, and forestland.  So much better.  Lots of photo opportunities, with loads of birds and butterflies and wildflowers, and other nature.  

    Generally flat, with some short ascents/descents.  Weather remains amazing - highs around 70 (Fahrenheit), some overcast but no rain, and a good breeze.

    Today, we covered just shy of 18 miles.  Jana's leg is still healthy.  And by the time dinner is over, her pedometer will hit 40k steps (176 steps shy at this moment).  We are not going too fast, taking frequent breaks, and Jana is stopping regularly for stretching.  It is all working.

    One other 'odd' item for the day:  yesterday, we were constantly surrounded by other pilgrims, from start to finish.  Today, very, very few.  Perhaps it is because we took a shorter day yesterday, and we didn't catch up to the folks ahead, and the folks back at Leon did not have an opportunity to overtake us.  Either way, it was pleasant to chat with the smaller number of folks, and also have some time to be by ourselves.

    Tomorrow is going to be another step-up, with 18 miles, much of it uphill, but it looks to be mostly moderate grade.  We are looking forward to it.

    It was a good birding day.  36 species identified, with 2 new ones today.

    Now for photos (and more Caminologue):

    OK - a few more photos of our crazy Twilight Zone 1975 hotel:
    If this shelf does not look level, it might be because it is not

    And here is the common 2nd floor lobby, with magazines that are all 5-10 yrs old:

    And in this lobby, there is some peculiar art on the wall to the left:

    I do understand that the capirote head-covering and has historically been associated with penitence in the Catholic Church and in Spain, but as an American, it feels deeply unsettling that this is on the wall:

    Departing for the morning a little later than normal, about 7:30, just after sunrise:

    One of the first birds of the day - a European Serin, perched on Villous Deadly Carrot (which is very pretty):

    Our first new bird of the day.  A Rook (type of crow).  A bunch of nests next to a high-school ball-field.  And one in a tree, and one if flight.

    Another Bell-tower (leaving Villadangos), and more White Storks:

    On a brief side-track, the path was covered with fluff from the blossoming trees, making it look like snow:

    A European Robin:

    A Cirl Bunting, largely silhouetted:

    The next town we walked through (Santa Marina del Rey) had a water-tower that looked a bit X-Files ish.  We ate 1st breakfast here.

    And with better sun, a better picture of a Cirl Bunting:

    Poppy photo of the day, alongside a Common Mallow:

    We saw a number of Common Chaffinches today:

    A lot of butterflies today.  This one is a Speckled Wood butterfly:

    And this one is a Polyommatus, whose wings are more distinctive on the underside than the topside:

    Finally, at mile 8, we were able to leave the Highway for farmland and forest, but first, we went to a historic city with a legend that will be described shortly.  This town had a much more elegant water-tower than the UFO:

    A European Greenfinch, one of the more common birds on city outskirts:

    And a tiny Zitting Cisticola:

    OK.  The legend at Hospital de Orbigo, very briefly:  In 1434, a knight (Suero de Quiñones) fell in love with a girl, who did not reciprocate.  he couldn't get over it.  so he made a request to the king that he would challenge all knights who wished to cross this bridge to a joust.  and if he broke 300 lances by defeating 100 knights (3 lances per knight) in 30 days, he would then go on a pilgrimage to Santiago.  and this would rid him of his passion.  He succeeded, and now there are festivities around this historic feat.
    It is a very nice bridge, with a very nice pitch for jousting.  A very pleasant town.  Jana and I had 1st lunch here (sandwiches) and bought cherries, blueberries, plumbs and cherry tomatoes for 2nd lunch.  And chocolate and nuts as a backup, in case our final town was closed for dinner until after 8PM.

    At the middle of the bridge, there are two columns that partially recount the story, and list some of the defeated knights:

    After walking through the town, there were two path options... One along the highway, and one through forest and farmland (you can guess which one we took).  Some locals made their own opinions very plain:

    Much preferable to freeway:

    Spotted this Ocellated Lizard, and was able to catch a picture before he scrambled away:

    The color of the blue stalks and the green wheat makes for a nice contrast:

    Another butterfly - a Melitaea Phoebe:

    Bees on a blooming thistle:

    A weird looking insect - probably a Chrysis wasp.  A good name for a bug.
    And next to that, a very large Desert Stink Beetle.

    Another butterfly.  This one a Painted Lady:

    One we did not expect to see/hear in Spain - a Raven.  Same as in US:

    Yet another butterfly - this one a Glanville Fritillary.  They may all be black and orange, but their patterns are distinct:

    So many wildflowers - at least five types in this photo:

    And some tiny ones in the path (one next to the toe of my shoe).  I believe these are Spergularia:

     Another interesting bug - a Manx Robber Fly (Robber Fly referring to it ambushing and preying on other insects):

    After about 6 miles with no services, we ran across this stand set up specifically to support Pilgrims.  Donations only - all is free to pilgrims.  Fruit, juices, boiled eggs, nuts, coffee, muffins....  It was a welcome break

    More wildflowers and insects:

    And an entire field of Hairy Vetch (a cover crop for improving soil): was certainly making the bees happy

    Cresting the ridge, we finally see our destination for the evening, San Justo:

    Once we get to the foot of the town, a few tenths of a mile from our hostel, Jana is inspired to celebrate and share a drink with a pilgrim statue.  It has been a long (and successful) day.