The Emerald Isle, days 4-6 (delayed post)

    Day 4 in Ireland was another self-guided tour of Dublin, including:
    A trip to Trinity College to see the Book of Kells and the Library.  The Book of Kells is a very early manuscript of the first 4 books of the New Testament, with incredible calligraphy and artistic detail.  That it survived transport across to Ireland and Viking raids (and that it was stolen once, and then found buried (minus the jeweled case)) is itself a miracle.  If you ever get a chance to see this exhibit, do so.  You are allowed to see only one page - they turn the page monthly (and allow no photography in the room).
    The Library is also of historic importance, and has (in addition to the Book of Kells, and countless other Irish early manuscripts) a number of objects including the famous Irish Harp (symbol for Guinness Beer, and for the Ireland), 
    After the Library/Kells tour, we rode a Hop-on-Hop-off tour bus through Dublin, and found that our friend Dermot had been an excellent guide - much of it was repeat.  We did get to spend some extra time around Phoenix Park, and around some of the North-Side of the River.

    Days 5-6:  Another of our friends, Johnny, picked us up from Dublin and brought us to his home town of Monaghan, near the border with Northern Ireland.  He signed us up for a tour of a couple of very ancient burial structures in Knowth and Newgrange.  They were built in 3200BC (about 800 years before the Pyramids in Giza), and include examples of megalithic art (artwork carved into stones).  For almost 1000 years, Knowth was the largest human-built structure on Earth.  The tour of the two sites by two excellent guides did a lot to excite the science-geeks in both Jana and me.
    Day 6 started with a hike with Johnny on the "Esh Walk" close to the Northern Ireland border, with a lot of birds and flowers and insects; and then a tour of Rossmore Forest Park (with its many giants) with Johnny and his family.  After, Johnny drove us back to Dublin for dinner and pubs with Dermot.  Amazing food (Guiness Beef Stew), brew (Guinness), friends and music.

    Pictures:

Day 4:
    The tour of the Book of Kells did not allow photography in the room with the book itself.  It did have an exhibit room with some examples of the calligraphy found within the book.  This was not just a simple transcription.  These monks had some good calligraphy skills with symbolic/artistic flourish.  And that does not begin to describe some of the pages of art.

    Tour of the Library.  Shelves.  Busts.  The Brian Boru Harp (first used by Guinness, and then adopted by the country of Ireland [reversing the image so as not to infringe on Guinness's trademark]):

    Another visit to Phoenix Park. 
    The Flanagan family has been in charge of the lamps since 1890. The lamplighter with the ladder is has been maintaining the family tradition for the past 40 years.  

    Walking around the park, encountered a European Treecreeper, blending in well with the bark.

    And a Common Coot, with its weirdly plastic-looking feet:

    A visit to the Jameson Distillery:

    The Temple Bar, in the Temple Bar District:

    Day 5:
    Johnny picked us up and headed north.  First stop, a tour of Knowth and Newgrange.
    Knowth is the larger tunneled mound, and also includes a number of satellite burial chambers.  Some very good engineering to build these structures, which were the largest manmade objects in the world for centuries.  After 5000 years, both of these sites remain water-tight.  The excavation at Knowth had additional complications for the archaeologists, as the same structure was used by many different groups, centuries apart.  Some photos at Knowth (main structure from a distance; one of the entrances; an example of the megalithic art on one of the ring-stones):

    The architects (or the folks directing the architecture) certainly picked a spot with a nice view.

    Nearby, Newgrange was used by one group, and stayed intact until its rediscovery a couple hundred years ago.  Newgrange also allows entrance (with a guide; and no photography inside).  The central chamber lights with the sunrise at the Winter Solstice - if you want to see it then, you need to submit for their lottery.

    Johnny, Jana and Clark at Newgrange:

    Day 6:

    Started with a hike on a trail called the Esh Walk.  So many wildflowers and birds and insects.  Some have great names.
    Fireweed and Stinking Willie:

    Hoverflies on Juneberry.

    A Peacock Butterfly and a Red Admiral Butterfly:

    Common Spotted Orchid:

    A European Robin:

    A Green-Veined White Butterfly:

    After lunch, a tour of Rossmore Forest Park with Johnnie and his family.  The park is home to many giants:

    And dung beetles:

    After the park tour, back to Dublin for dinner with Dermot and Johnny.  On the way, we passed a courthouse.  The symbolism of the seal is interesting: the Lion represents England and the Unicorn represents Ireland; the unicorn is collared by a crown, and is chained.

    After a dinner of Guinnes Beef Stew, off to the pubs.  A fantastic trio playing Irish Traditional Music kept us at McNeils Pub (on Capal Street) for a couple of hours.  And, of course, some Guinness.  Next time I am in Dublin, I will definitely return to listen to this group.

    After, we went to the Brazen Head - Dublin's oldest pub.  And that took us to the end of the night.